Friday 23rd December – 8 :00- 13:00

24th,  25th, 26th  December CLOSED

Tuesday 27th December -8:00-13:00

Wednesday 28th December – 8:00- 13:00

Thursday 29th December – 8:00-13:00

Friday 30th December – 8:00-13:00

Saturday 31st & Sunday 1st January –  CLOSED

Tuesday 3rd January – open as normal – 8:00-17:30

Wednesday 4th January – open as normal –  8:00-17:30

Thursday 5th January – open as normal – 8:00- 17:30

Friday 6th January  – CLOSED

Saturday 7th January -9:00-13:00

Monday 9th January back to normal




Friday 23rd December – open as normal

24th,  25th, 26th  December CLOSED

Tuesday 27th  December  – 9:00- 14:00

Wednesday 28th December  – 9:00- 14:00

Thursday 29th December  – 9:00- 14:00

Friday 30th December -9:00-14:00

Saturday 31st & Sunday 1st January –  CLOSED

Monday 2nd January – open as normal –  8:00- 17.30


Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on CHRISTMAS OPENING HOURS


Simple concrete mixing

concrete makingThe idea of mixing concrete might be one that novice DIY fans might baulk at but it’s worth putting some time into it as it’s a valuable skill.

Being able to mix small amounts of concrete is very handy for repairs to walls and paths in the garden, driveway patches and other areas of hard-standing. You can use it to fix fence posts in place and even patch internal concrete floors without having to employ contractors.

Setting Expectations

The real skill with concrete is knowing which components to use, which percentages of sand, cement and other aggregates to use, then where and how to control the setting, particularly over large areas and in different weather conditions. But mixing up a small batch for a repair job is something that should be within the capabilities of most DIY beginners, although you are encouraged to practice first.

We aren’t going to attempt to turn you into a master of concrete in this

article, that would be foolhardy. So we will restrict ourselves to hand mixing of small amounts to use around the garden and home. There won’t be any need for a mixer either.

Sand and Cement

Get hold of your materials first. We will forget about any added aggregates and stick to abags of sand simple sand and cement mix. Six parts of sand to one of cement is a good general purpose mix for a mortar for laying bricks or blocks, but you need to go as high as four to one for an area that will be permanently wet, like a pond liner. You’ll need a supply of water as well, of course.

A thick sheet of plastic or tarpaulin over a wooden board makes a good platform for mixing. You need the wood to give a hard surface to shovel against and the sheet helps to keep everything together and uncontaminated. Put the sand and concrete on the tarpaulin and mix it all together thoroughly with a spade or shovel.

Preparing the Water

Shape the dry mix into a hummock and make a well in the centre. This is where you will add the water, but that needs preparation first. You need to add a plasticiser which will help the mix remain malleable while you work it into whatever you are repairing. A few drops of washing up liquid in a bucket will work, or you can buy a commercial plasticiser.

febmixGet a bucketful of water and mix the plasticiser in, then pour some into the middle of your hummock. Then gradually draw the cement and sand mix into the well, mixing thoroughly as you work your way round. Add water slowly and keep the mortar mix on the dry side initially. It’s much easier to add some more water than it is to mix up a new dry sand and cement load to add if you’ve already made it too damp.


Getting the mortar to the right consistency is something that comes from experience. You need to be able to modify the amount of water you add depending on all sorts of factors — how dry the materials are to start with, whether there is more or less water in the atmosphere, and of course the job you are doing. But generally you should be aiming for a consistency that will pour slowly. Then apply it to the job in hand.

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on SIMPLE CONCRETE MIXING


Basics of surface preparation

surface prepIn all aspects of DIY the quality of the final finish will always depend on the amount of preparation that you do. This is no less true with surface preparation before painting or wallpapering. As this site tends toward basic DIY we’ll cover just the preparation needed before painting and wallpapering walls, as those are the basic building blocks of home decor.

We’ll start with the walls first. It’s not necessary to remove all the layers of paint before painting over or wallpapering, but if a room has been papered then that has to go. If there’s no wallpaper to remove you can skip the next few paragraphs.

Stripping Wallpaper

Wallpapers strippers can be hired; they use steam to loosen the glue holding the wallpaperstripping wallpaper to the wall so that it can be peeled off. This is well worth doing if you have many rooms to do, if you are only doing one room you may find it cheaper to remove it manually.

Much of the paper may come off just by peeling it back, depending on how long it’s been there and how good the job was in the first place. The remaining pieces can be scored with a sharp knife (but be careful not to go through and scratch the wall) and then warm water applied with a large sponge. After a few applications the glue will soften and you can remove the paper with a scraper. Now you will have a wall that’s ready to be cleaned and prepared.

Filling Cracks and Dents

The next step, and welcome back to those who didn’t have wallpaper to remove, is to get the surface smooth, dry and free from blemishes. Start by brushing the wall down to remove and loose particles so that you can see what you are left with. If there are any cracks make sure you get all the loose dust out of them.

We’ll tackle those cracks now, along with any other dents or damage that needs filling. Get a ready-prepared filler or mix some from paste, following the manufacturers instructions. Spread the filler into and over the cracks, smoothing over with a wet palette knife or spreader.

filling cracksPush the filler into the deeper cracks and don’t put it on too thickly. If there are deep holes build up thin layers rather than trying to fill them all in one go. Leave the filler slightly proud of the wall surface so that when it is sanded back it will blend into the surrounding wall. Sanding can be done after the filler is dry.

Sanding Down the Walls

Sanding can be done with an electrical sander or by hand. Hand sanding is more tiring but a lot less messy. If you go the hand route, attached the sandpaper to a flat wooden block and rub the walls with that. Don’t be tempted to use your fingers as you will make grooves in the wall.

Go all over the wall, not just the areas where you have applied filler, as you will want to rub down any high spots too. If the wall is bad then use a rough or medium grade of sandpaper first and then follow up with a finer paper. Otherwise just use the fine paper from the start.

Final Wash Down

Finally brush down again to remove all the little grains that the sanding has left behind and wash the wall, either with warm water or a sugar soap solution (you can buy this from DIY shops) followed by water.

If the sponge or cloth you are using to rub down is still looking dirty, keep washing until it comes off clean. Don’t rub too hard though, as you will be removing old paint which will make the cloth look dirty and you’ll never stop.

Take Pride in Your Efforts

Of course, this is all very tedious and boring. Unfortunately, if you want the best finish, one you can be proud of, it has to be done. But it will be worth all the effort once you see the finished job.

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on THE BASICS OF SURFACE PREPARATION


Composite decking :  

TACTILE & BEAUTIFUL – Made to last!

AIM COMPOSITE FLOORING MARBELLAComposite decking is made from modern innovative wood plastic composite material from Luna wood, called LunaComp Deck.

Recently installed in Marbella, we’d like to share this example of how composite decking can be laid directly up to pool edges to give a seamless transition between your villa and your pool, or garden.

The main raw materials are high quality plastic polymers & Thermowood sawdust which are both weather and decay resistant materials. Lunacomp decking is easy to install, water resistant and is available in 2 colours : Graphite Gray or Mocca Brown. The hollow structure prevents warping and can also conceal cables for lighting or audio equipment to your terrace.

Composite 4 Composite 7 Composite 11

There Is No Need For Extra Wood Preservatives!



Composite decking can be installed to compliment villas, pools, balconies, terraces, lawns or Jacuzzis. Whether you need 10m2 or 100m2, AIM British Building Supplies can offer you design advice and fitting options, to make the very best of your available space. Situated in Marbella and Alicante, AIM can offer either SUPPLY ONLY composite decking, or SUPPLY & FIT including our own delivery services.

lunacomp_brochure_en_web_2013_Page_1 lunacomp_brochure_en_web_2013_Page_2 lunacomp_brochure_en_web_2013_Page_3

AIM British Building Supplies have a wide range of decking products in stock. Please visit our website page for more information: .

If you would like to know more about our decking products, including our supply and fit service or any of other building products, please call in for a chat with our experienced in-house team to advise you on the best components for your project, see website for directions CLICK HERE

AIM British Building Supplies – Your Building Merchant in Spain

MARBELLA, Costa del Sol.        
TEL: +34 952 835 172          
ALICANTE, Costa Blanca.        
TEL: +34 965 791 740         
AIM British Building Supplies & DIY Centre .
Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on COMPOSITE DECKING

How to Fasten your Deck Boards the Easy Way


works on any treated lumber, hardwood, cedar, composite or PVC deckboard. CAMO deck screws and a CAMO™ Marksman tool combine to deliver a fastener-free deck surface at a price that makes getting the job easy and installing the deck even easier. The CAMO™ Hidden Deck Fastening System. IT’S CHANGING THE FACE OF DECKING.
Not only is the Camo system easy to use for installing decking it is invaluable to make quick repairs to individual boards as you do not have to remove the whole decked area. The Camo Decking system is available for hire for only 5€ day from Aim.
Here is a testimonial from a satisfied customer this week:
I recently erected decking around my 5 mt x 3 mt steel wall pool, using decking from AIM Building Suppliers in Las Chapas. They recommended fitting the decking planks with a new system of screw fixing using a CAMO decking screw tool. This tool allows you to fit the decking planks with equal spacing and the screw itself is fitted at an angle in the side of the plank so that there are no visible screws on top of the decking. I found the tool very easy to use with excellent results and I have no problem in recommending this system to anyone who is fitting decking and wants a professional finish.
Paul Annetts
Take a look at this video which shows you exactly how the system works, you will wonder how you ever did without it before!
Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

How to Tile a Floor


How to tile a floor

Tools required for tiling







You will need:

Step One: Find a Starting Point

Find the mid-points of the two longest walls and draw a chalk line across the floor room between these points. Repeat for the shorter walls but adjust the line so that it passes through the centre of the first line at right angles.

Step Two: Experiment with the Layout

Lay tiles along the two lines to check if they look right from the doorway. If any gaps at the walls are less than half a tile wide, shift the line across to make more of a gap. Also, move the guide lines so that tiles around a dominant feature (i.e. a fireplace or French windows) are symmetrical and there are whole tiles at the doorway. Try to work with as many whole tiles as possible, even if it means adjusting the grout line width slightly.

Step Three: Spread the Adhesive

Spread about one square metre of tile adhesive/grout into one of the right angles made by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrape the notched edge of the trowel across the mix to form ridges of the same thickness.

Step Four: Lay the First Tiles and Spacers

Lay the first few tiles along the edge of the longest centre line. Gently press the tiles into place, making sure they also line up with the other centre line. Add plastic spacers at each corner to keep them exactly the same distance apart for grouting.

Step Five: Lay the Remaining Whole Tiles

Work outwards from the middle of the room until you have laid all the whole tiles on one half of the floor. Use a spirit level to check the tiles are at the same level. Now move across to the other side of the longest centre line and add the rest of the whole tiles. Leave to set for 24 hours.

Step Six: Cut the Tiles to Fit Gaps

Use the tile cutter to trim the edge tiles to the right shape. Measure the space at both ends in case the walls are uneven and remember to allow for the grouting gap. Always wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.

Step Seven: Seal and Grout the Tiles

Leave the adhesive to set for at least 12 hours, then seal the surface and allow the sealer to dry for at least two hours. Grout between the tiles with the adhesive/grout.

Buy all the tiles you will need at one time if possible to avoid any differences between batches. Shuffle packs of natural or handmade tiles to ensure any colour or pattern differences are spread evenly over the floor.

If you want to form a pattern, draw a plan of the room on graph paper to make sure the pattern will look in proportion and symmetrical.

To tile a room which has to be used every day, tile one half of the area at a time so you can still walk across the bare floor while the tile adhesive sets.
If you find you are working slowly and the adhesive is beginning to set, only spread around half a square metre at a time. It’s essential the adhesive is still wet when the tiles are being fixed.


Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on How to Tile a Floor

How to plaster a plasterboard wall

Aim blog 1.8.13

How to plaster a plasterboard wall

Plastering needs practice and a good technique for perfect results but it’s possible to tackle smaller areas with good results. Leave ceilings to the professionals. Here’s how to add a plaster skim coat to a new plasterboard wall.

You will need all of the tools and materials listed below, all stocked by Aim British Building Supplies and DIY Centres:

Plastering trowelMulti finish plaster

Larger bucket for mixing
Paddle accessory and power drill
Multi-finish plaster
Angle beading for external corners
EuroScrim tape for any board joints

Skim coat

Corner plaster beadSkimming is a term used for applying a thin coat of plaster to a wall or ceiling to provide a smooth uniform surface. The amount of plaster needed can be worked out by area/weight. 10kg should be sufficient to cover about 5 sq m at a thickness of 3mm. Only buy plaster when you need it, as the shelf life is minimal, and ensure it is kept in a dry room away from damp.

1: Preparation

Before starting, you should clear out the room and dust down the plasterboard. The idea isPolythene dust sheet to get rid of as much dust as possible since all surfaces need to be Plasterboard tapekept clean.  Dirt and dust can cause problems later and it only takes a short time to clean up.

Clear the area of furniture and spread plenty of plastic sheeting over the floor. If you are plastering over new plasterboard, press scrim tape over all the board joints and screw metal reinforcing angle bead to all external corners.

2: Mixing the plaster
Plaster mixing paddleMix your plaster according the instructions on the bag. Always add the plaster to the water and use a clean mixing bucket. It’s essential to mix the powder and water thoroughly so that you have a thickish, creamy consistency with no lumps. A paddle accessory fitted to a corded electric drill is the best method of mixing.
Plaster can set in minutes, especially in the summer, so only mix as much as you can use immediately. Don’t add new plaster to an older mix and don’t add water to the plaster to try and make it more workable. 

3: Applying the base coat

Scrape a trowel full of plaster off the mixing board and onto your hawk. Next, transfer half the plaster to your trowel. Keep your trowel wrist straight and use a flicking action with your ‘hawk hand’ to move the plaster from hawk to trowel.

Working from the bottom of the wall, use smooth strokes to press the plaster onto the wall. Gradually narrow the gap between the trowel’s top edge and the wall as you move the tool upwards. Always keep the trowel at a slight angle to the wall at the end of the stroke. If the trowel is flattened against the surface it may pull the new plaster away from the wall.
Work over the whole area aiming to apply a base coat – don’t worry about any uneven areas or holes at this stage. This coat should be around 2mm thick. Use the angle beading as a guide when plastering up to external corners.

4: Smoothing the surface

Clean around the edges of the wall with a wet paintbrush to remove lumps and lines of plaster that are on the ceiling or adjacent walls.
The next stage is to level and smooth the surface but this can only be done when the plaster has hardened slightly but is still pliable. This working time will vary from a few minutes in summer to twenty minutes or more in very damp cold environments. Use your trowel at a very shallow angle to the wall and work over the surface smoothing the surface.  You can add a thinner skim of more plaster to fill holes and even out depressions.

5: Drying And Polishing

Leave the plaster to dry once more – for around 30 to 40 minutes. Now the plaster can be polished. Wet the face of your trowel and flick water onto the wall with a large paintbrush. The idea is to provide just enough lubrication for your trowel to float over the surface and fill tiny holes and imperfections. Work in regular sweeping strokes and finish with long continuous strokes across the wall.

Wash your mixing board and tools as soon as you’ve finished work. Don’t keep opened plaster bags for more than a couple of weeks.

please enter your email to subscribe to our newsletters & special offers :

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on How to plaster a plasterboard wall

How to wallpaper a feature wall

Seal porous surfaces either with diluted wallpaper adhesive or with a wall size, following the instructions on the packet, and allow to dry – this seals the surface, improves adhesion and makes it easier to slide around wallpaper for pattern matching.

For a neat finish, centre the paper on the wall. Start papering in the middle of the wall and work outwards – this is particularly important on a small area such as a chimney breast. Decide where this centre piece will be, then hang a plumb line against the wall and mark along the length of the cord with a pencil.
Measure from above the skirting board to ceiling, add 10cm, and cut paper this length.
Lay the paper pattern side down on a pasting table and thoroughly paste the back, making sure the paste goes right to the edge of the paper. Fold carefully into a concertina and leave for a few minutes to allow the paste to soak in (check times on the label). 
Hang the paper with the edge along the vertical pencil line with about 5cm overlapping on the ceiling and at the skirting then smooth it onto the wall removing any bubbles with a pasting brush (work from the centre out). Score a crease neatly along the ceiling and skirting board lines with the edge of your scissors, lift the paper then cut off the excess and smooth flat. If the edges or corners lift, apply more paste with a small brush and smooth down. Wipe away excess paste with a damp sponge.
If hanging a patterned paper, measure the second piece on the wall against the first once it is hung, as the pattern may fall in such a place that a very large overlap may occur at the ceiling. Trim this overlap to a manageable size before you paste.
Work your way along the wall, carefully butting up the edges of the paper drops but do not overlap. Run a seam roller over the joins where two pieces of paper meet to ensure they are totally flat.

On the last drop, crease the paper into the corners and trim. A wallpaper trimming wheel makes this easy.

Top tip
When cutting wet wallpaper only use scissors or a cutting wheel. Do not use a knife as this can drag through the paper causing an uneven torn edge.

please enter your email to subscribe to our newsletters & special offers :

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on How to wallpaper a feature wall

ABBS at the Homes and Gardens Show in Torremolinos 27th and 28th April 2013

Aim British Building Supplies, in conjunction with Elite Glass Curtains, once again had a well-visited stand at the Homes and Gardens Show, held in the Palacio de Congresos,  Torremolinos in April.  Tommy Walsh of Ground Force fame was at the show and came to visit us at ABBS to see what we had to offer on the decking front!

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on ABBS at the Homes and Gardens Show in Torremolinos 27th and 28th April 2013

How to prepare before painting your villa exterior with Sandtex

Removing old paint – complete all stripping and rubbing down before you start painting so that dust and flakes will not fall on wet surfaces. Start from the top and work down, clean out gutters and paint if necessary.  When removing old flaking masonry paint, use a scraper where possible then for small flakes a stiff bristle brush will remove residual flakes. It is important NOT to use a wire brush on the masonry surfaces as metal particles can become embedded on the surface, these react to the water based masonry paint thus resulting in potential rust spots that will make the walls look unsightly. When removing old paint it is recommended that you wear safety goggles / glasses, gloves and a mask, this will reduce the risk of damaging your eyes or breathing in dust particles.

 Organic mould growth – Often you can encounter a problem with mould growth on an exterior wall, it is important to effectively treat these contaminated areas as the mould will come through newly painted areas. Where there is a particular mould issue initially remove any surface contamination with a scraper then use a stiff bristle brush. Once the surface is sound you must apply a fungicide solution, these should be diluted with water according to the pack instructions. As they are usually a bleach based material, for safety, use gloves and goggles or safety glasses.

Apply the fungicide solution to the affected area plus an overlap to ensure the solution penetrates the surface and kills the  organic growth. Again check the manufacturers pack instructions as to the recommended time prior to painting over the fungicide solution, this is usually 24 hours. This will ensure a clean surface for a better adhesion of the masonry paint. Mould tends to grow in damp conditions so it is important to deal with not just the mould problem but also the cause of the problem as this could be a leaking gutter concentrating water on the wall creating a damp area.

Unstable surfaces – One of the problems that can occur when painting an exterior wall is that of a chalky / dusty unstable surface. If you apply paint without effectively treating this problem the paint will dry and stick to the loose dust particles and not get a sound adhesion to the wall resulting in the paint blistering and failing. To check for this issue wipe your hand on the surface to be painted and if you have dusty particles on your hand then you will require to use a stabilising solution. The stabilising solution is very easy to apply using a 3” brush direct to the surface, allow to dry for 24 hours prior to painting. The stabilising solution seals, and stabilises to allow for good adhesion of the masonry paint, it also allows the paint to cover further.

How much paint do you need? – Having enough paint to complete the job sounds obvious yet getting this wrong results in a trip back to the store for another tin can prove time consuming plus stopping part way across a wall results in a ‘wet edge line’ that can be unattractive. So ensure that you have plenty of paint to complete the task. Painting edge to edge will ensure an even paint application.  To work out how much paint you will need to paint your house, follow this simple calculation:  Measure the length of each surface and multiply by the height.  This will give you the square metre area (e.g. a wall which measures 5 metres long and 3 metres high will give you a wall surface area of 15 square metres).  For doors and windows do the same then subtract this area from the total wall to achieve total square metres to be painted. The information on the back of the can will advise of the square metres per litre coverage, take into account that you may require a second coat.

Painting – Planning order of painting – Starting at the top, paint in sections working from right to left or left to right. Work your way across the house, first the top, then the middle and finally the lower part. Ensure where possible you maintain a wet edge so you don’t have stripes or blocks appearing on the on the wall where the paint has dried unevenly. Follow the sun, this will ensure that the surfaces are free from dew and in warm conditions, do not paint in direct sunlight as this can lead to blistering whilst drying..When applying exterior masonry paint the use of an appropriate applicator will ensure that you achieve a good finish, also get the job done with the minimum of effort and time. Brush application – 3” or 4” masonry brush is ideal, this allows you to cut in on edges and control the paint application ensuring a suitable amount of paint is applied, especially on textured surfaces.

 Rollers – The use of a roller, usually a medium to high pile sleeve will be a quicker way of painting a larger area. Adding an extension pole is a great way to apply over a larger surface more quickly. TIP: When using a roller the pressure should be greater on the upward stroke asthe roller delivers paint to the surface and less on the downward stroke as this direction of the roller is taking paint away, this potentially causes the paint to splatter.





Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on How to prepare before painting your villa exterior with Sandtex

How to install decking? Sustainable timber decking in Spain.

With summer just around the corner,  thoughts turn to our gardens and what better way to enjoy your home this summer than from your newly installed deck by the pool!

Decking can be installed to compliment villas, pools, balconies,  terraces,  lawns or Jacuzzis. Whether or not you have 10m2 or 100m2 to cover,  AIM can offer you design advice on how to make the very best of your available space.

AIM offer either SUPPLY ONLY, or SUPPLY & FIT decking solutions including our own delivery services. Only top grade materials are kept in stock from sustainable sources. This simple example uses tanalised decking boards, with Thermowood and Greenboo you can use the clip systems for fixing without going through the boards.  A raised structure will require uprights which can be fixed with concrete into the ground or with met-post fittings.

Which sustainable timber should I choose?

Thermowood is sourced from Scandinavian forests, heat and steam treated to make it virtually impermeable to water, this timber does not shrink or swell and is ideal for the Spanish climate, due to its low moisture content it is resistant to fungal attack, to maintain its colour it simply needs treating annually or biannually depending on which of the products you choose from our range, Cutek, Cuprinol, Lumberjack or Crown.

Greenboo-Bamboo has a denser structure than the Thermowood, it is extremely resistant to shrinkage and does not twist or swell. The properties of bamboo are similar to the best hardwoods without the felling of endangered species, the surface is durable and the gap between the boards is very small and even. Both the bamboo and Thermo use clip systems which eliminates the need to screw through the boards. The recommended treatment for colour, and protection from UV, is Cutek which is specifically formulated for the product

 AIM British Building Supplies have a wide range of decking products in stock.  Please visit our new website page for more information: 

Or if you would like to know more about our decking products,  including our supply and fit service or any of other building products,  please call in for a chat with our experienced in-house team to advise you on the best components for your project,  see website for directions 


We include a wide range of the best building products on the market in our stores in Marbella and Alicante,  with delivery options across the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca.

AIM – Your Building Merchant in Spain

MARBELLA, Costa del Sol.        

TEL: +34 952 835 172          



ALICANTE, Costa Blanca.

TEL: +34 965 791 740



AIM British Building Supplies & DIY Centre  .


Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on How to install decking? Sustainable timber decking in Spain.

The Benefits of Guttering in Spain

AIM BLOG 18.02.13

The Benefits of Guttering in Spain

If you are generally DIY savvy, guttering is an installation which you can carry out yourself at home for a minimal cost and without the need for specialised tools.

Installing guttering can help to protect your foundations, reduce erosion, minimise staining to your painted or rendered walls, and also prevent leaks in your basement. Or just at the most simple level, it can allow you to enter your house in a heavy rain storm without taking a shower on your way in. This is a two-man job due to the length of the components and ladders should be made secure at all times.

With the weather so contrasting in Spain and of course the general lack of damp-proofing measures in typical constructions here, guttering can significantly help to improve the lifespan to your property. Arid ground conditions dried out by the strong sun, leave buildings vulnerable at ground level as the surrounding land contracts and compacts when the ground water evaporates.  This means that the land becomes extremely hard and less receptive to absorbing water quickly allowing rain or storm water to run off very quickly and find its way into air spaces left around the building.  By directing the water away from your property or collecting the water, this can be minimised.

AIM guttering  - fitting a guttering bracketGuttering systems work very much like Meccano® as a kit of component parts which are slotted together.  Lengths of guttering tubing (sometimes called half-pipe) are hung using roof tile or fascia brackets along at the bottom of each section of pitched roof to collect the rainwater.

These gutters collect and direct the rainwater horizontally on a fall towards rainwater downpipes normally located at a corner, which take the water vertically down, via a series of connecting guttering junctions and away from the property at ground level, keeping the base of your house, or building, drier.

Standard guttering connections make this installation very simple and by measuringAIM guttering shopping list the height and width of each roof section of your house, you can easily write a short shopping list of guttering materials required.

It is also possible to collect the rainwater for use in your garden into a tank or water butt.  This is particularly advantageous in Spain where water is at a premium and can easily be connected to your irrigation system.


We should note that guttering maintenance is important and you should clear out the debris inside the guttering tubes and hoppers once or twice a year depending on the number of surrounding trees that you have. Clogged pipes are ineffective and can become blocked or damaged as weight and force builds up without a clear flow.  It is possible to protect pipework from debris blockage etc. by installing leaf guards for example, but this is optional.

AIM British Building Supplies have a wide range of guttering products in stock, in a variety of colours.  Please visit our new website page for more information:   


Or if you would like to know more about protecting your property from the rain and damp proofing,  roofing products,  sealants and other building products,  please call in for a chat with our experienced in-house team to advise you on the best components for your project see website for directions 

We include a wide range of the best building products on the market in our stores in Marbella and Alicante,  with delivery options across the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca.

AIM – Your Building Merchant in Spain


MARBELLA, Costa del Sol.        

TEL: +34 952 835 172          



ALICANTE, Costa Blanca.

TEL: +34 965 791 740


 AIM British Building Supplies & DIY Centre  .

Image source:

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on The Benefits of Guttering in Spain

AIM British Building Supplies and DIY Centre on Facebook

AIM British Building Supplies & DIY Centre

AIM British Building Supplies & DIY Centre on facebook

ABBS are delighted to announce our new facebook page ready for 2013!

Please visit us here and give us a ‘like’ to hear our news and latest offers.  It will also help you to keep in touch or make contact with other construction professionals or DIY enthusiasts local to you as we will be trying to bring together as many followers as possible during the next few months as we build up our page.

AIMs offer the very best in branded building materials that you know and trust.  We are the only distributor of Crown paints in Spain,  including Sandtex Masonry Paint and we can mix paint on site while you wait to any colour and specification you require. We bring high quality decking from around the world,  including Bamboo and Thermowood, to the Costa del Sol and the Costa Blanca,  making us now the largest decking supplier on the coast,  offering the best prices for trade or DIY.

Look forward to meeting you on our page,  if there are any topics you would like us to cover,  please feel free to let us know by sending us a post or you can email us at and we will do our very best to answer your suggestion.

all the best from the AIMs team

AIM logo for facebook

ABBS British builders merchants in Spain, CLICK our logo to visit us on facebook


Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on AIM British Building Supplies and DIY Centre on Facebook

ABBS at Homes, Gardens & Outdoor Living Show Estepona

AIM British Building Supplies and DIY centre - expo standPopular stand at this year’s show, AIM British Building Supplies and DIY centre in conjunction with James Brewer construction constructed a full size pergola with decking and thatched parasols. Show held 9-10 Nov.12 in the Palacio de Congreseos, Estepona.

ABBS at homes and gardens2 091112ABBS at homes and gardens 091112aim british building supplies at Homes and gardens 101112

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on ABBS at Homes, Gardens & Outdoor Living Show Estepona

BRITISH Builders Merchant in Spain

WELCOME to AIM British Building Supplies and DIY Centre,  your BRITISH BUILDERS MERCHANT in SPAIN.

We have 2 stores,  ABBS in Elviria, Marbella and ABBS in Javea, Alicante with largest stock of timber decking including Thermowood and Bamboo and only stockist in Spain of Crown Paint including Sandtex exterior masonry paint.


please enter your email to subscribe to our newsletters & special offers :

Posted in news | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on BRITISH Builders Merchant in Spain